(Yellowstone)
What do you say about a destination that has been praised innumerable times? How do you describe a marvel that has been photographed extensively? There is no dearth of information when it comes to the world’s first national park. Booklets, websites, and blogs are filled with details on how to get there, where to stay, and what to do in Yellowstone and the surrounding area, including its neighbor, the Grand Teton, yet what still remains under-narrated is the profound impact the places have on their visitors. (Yellowstone)
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After a significant flight delay and a five-hour-long drive, my spouse, son, and I finally arrived at Yellowstone rather late on a summer night. Given the poor visibility, we were fortunate to find ourselves sandwiched between an RV in front and a car behind; it made us feel safer in their company in this uncharted territory. We could hardly see farther than our headlight beam, but the pungent smell piercing through the cool night air reminded us that we had now entered an extraordinary land—a land of geysers, hot springs, and mudpots. (Yellowstone)
I had absorbed from the literature I scanned before our travels that, situated on top of a gigantic caldera, the park is part of the most seismically active region of the Rocky Mountains, shaken by up to 5,000 earthquakes every year. I also happened to watch a documentary that showed how scientists are still uncovering parts of its violent past, which was carved by water, crushed by ancient glaciers, and blasted by the biggest volcanic eruptions ever known on Earth. But what my eyes took in the next morning was beyond my imagination. (Yellowstone)
“A short drive from there took us to Midway Geyser Basin, a much smaller area, yet it was once known as Hell’s Half Acre for a good reason.”
Upper Geyser Basin: Yellowstone
In the morning, we headed to the Upper Geyser Basin, bemused at the fissures releasing steam in our way. A large group of people, including three familiar faces — our friends from Chicago — was gathered at what appeared to be a vast natural amphitheater, poised for a spectacle to unfold. In ten minutes, the Old Faithful geyser spewed out a column of boiling water reaching a hundred feet or so, and a series of gasps erupted through the crowd. It didn’t disappoint us one bit. If one wants to see geology in live action, this is precisely the spot to be at. (Yellowstone)
However, as we explored the other notable thermal features in the area via a network of boardwalks, we were stunned by the beauty of the place, noticing signs that asked us to stay on the paved path, although the unpaved parts looked innocuous enough to venture on. There was a sense of danger that added a dollop of excitement. We came across several other notable geysers, including Castle, Grand, and Daisy, which were not as frequent as Old Faithful. We also encountered several hot springs, mudpots, and fumaroles, which we later realized were found at several other locations in the park. (Yellowstone)
Midway Geyser Basin: Yellowstone
A short drive from there took us to Midway Geyser Basin, a much smaller area, yet it was once known as Hell’s Half Acre for a good reason. It contains the park’s two most prominent hydrothermal features— Excelsior geyser and the Grand Prismatic Spring. Stepping onto the boardwalk here reminded me of Mahabharat’s depiction of the Palace of Illusions. Nothing was what it appeared to be. What looked like solid ground was actually bubbling liquid mud, and what seemed like bright, golden sand was a mat of heat-loving bacteria. (Yellowstone)
The many shades of blue of the Excelsior were mesmerizing, but it was even more magical when one stood at its edge, allowing the hot, cloud-like vapor to envelop them. It looked like a giant cauldron, generating a wraithlike mist —a stark but fascinating contrast to the cool mountain air that could make one tremble. (Yellowstone)
Then the boardwalk narrowed, and the press of the crowd around us increased as we approached the Grand Prismatic. Up close, it looked like a scaled, heaving prehistoric reptile snorting like a fire-breathing dragon ready to leap into action. (Yellowstone)
As I read the scientific explanation behind the formation in an illustrated placard in front of the spring, I remembered what I had previously pursued about the indigenous tribes using the land for hunting and gathering long before European explorers arrived. I briefly closed my eyes to conjure up the vision of the Shoshone native people or the Crow people standing in front of the spring, his eyes closed as well. (Yellowstone)
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They believed that water spirits inhabited springs and traveled across the region through underwater channels. Shoshone shamans came to the spring to seek the spirit’s help in healing the sick. Other native tribes also used the thermal areas for spiritual purposes. They believed the cracks inside the springs were a portal to the spirit world. Belief and science clash, but at times also enhance one another, as is evident from how the park planners and rangers worked closely with the natives to map and understand the area. (Yellowstone)
The tribes’ ancient wisdom has helped scientists gradually understand the park’s multifaceted personality over the decades since its establishment in 1872. As I reopened my eyes, I breathed in the acrid smell of sulfur, recalling the Biblical reference to the scent being strongly associated with divine judgment and the wrath of God. Places like this truly bring out the philosopher in even the most unlikely candidates. (Yellowstone)
“Sometimes, overnight, new features emerge, the most placid geysers begin to erupt, and hot springs transform into geysers, making the basin the most hazardous part of the park.”
I wish we had had the time to hike up to the hilltop, following the Fairy Falls trail, to be rewarded with a broader view of the largest hot spring in the US, but there were a few other spots to visit before the day ended. I have been informed that from up there, it looks like an emerald-studded jewel with a vivid blue at the center and startling yellow and orange at the edges. Driving away from the emerald wonder, I hoped to come back someday to claim the marvelous view again. (Yellowstone)
Norris Geyser Basin
We moved further north to the Norris Geyser area, the park’s hottest and most acidic geyser basin, and also the most dynamic one. Home to the world’s tallest active geyser, Steamboat, which we saw erupt with a thundering roar, the basin is barren of vegetation, as expected given the high temperatures. The porcelain basin here, named after the milky color of the water, rich in minerals, resembles a large metallic frying pan with multiple eggs sizzling within it. This restless part of the park had obviously an even more pungent smell, which was now giving me a slight headache. (Yellowstone)
As I sat to catch my breath near the museum steps on the ridge overlooking the Norris Geyser Basin, I overheard a young couple discussing how much the basin had changed since their last visit a year ago. The excessive seismic activity at Norris contributes to quick and dramatic changes. Sometimes, overnight, new features emerge, the most placid geysers begin to erupt, and hot springs transform into geysers, making the basin the most hazardous part of the park. (Yellowstone)
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As we wound down for the day at Canyon Village, we enjoyed the huckleberry soda, a specialty of the park, and stocked up on bear spray and additional maps to help navigate the park the next day. Exhausted with a day full of driving, walking, and inhaling sour-smelling gases, we retired early at the Canyon Lodge. We had only seen the thermal features on our first day, but what we saw the day after convinced us of the park’s versatility. (Yellowstone)
Photos by Shubhankar Chowdhury
Sreya Sarkar is a freelance writer based out of Massachusetts, with her fingers dipped in multiple writing projects. A public policy professional by training, she writes socio-political columns for Indian news magazines like The Quint and Dainik Bhaskar. She also pens short stories for literary magazines.
