Most Indian hill stations are towns built around a central mall, originally set up by the British for their officers to go on vacation and relax in. However, in modern times, large numbers of tourists swarming to such popular destinations all year round have turned them into busy, bustling commercial hubs. So, just as most nature lovers yearning for some peace and quiet of the mountains, I was looking for an inconspicuous hotel a good distance from the Mall area for my solo trip to Ranikhet, Uttarakhand. That is when I chanced upon Majkhali.
A well-known destination, Ranikhet, is a garrison town housing the headquarters of the Kumaon Regiment of the Indian Army. From Kathgodam railway station, one can book a car for Ranikhet, a journey of 75kms taking about three hours. Upon reaching Ranikhet, another 12 kms/30 minutes’ drive up the Almora Road takes us to the picturesque and peaceful hamlet of Majkhali.
Alternately, one can fly down to the closest airport at Pantnagar, 121 kms away, and reach Majkhali via the NH109 in about four hours. The locale offers a number of beautiful, affordable, quality hotels and home-stays. A small village with an average elevation of 1,662 metres and population of about 14000 (as on 2020) nestled in the Kumaon, far from the din and bustle of tourists is ideal for unwinding.
The Majkhali Valley
It is a different story how, when I reached Hotel Richmond, I was aghast to find that it was shut down some months ago, but somehow, the owners had not taken it off a popular hotel booking website. My reservation was fully prepaid, the refund would take weeks to process, and I had limited cash on me to book an alternative, which would anyway be more expensive at such short notice.
It is then that driving around, we spotted a quaint and colourful lodge located on the roadside of Majkhali, the Yak and Yeti Inn. A small garden patch bright with red poppy blooms and local flowers just outside its gate soothed my senses. When I explained my predicament at the reception, the then manager was kind enough to offer me a special price that suited my pocket, despite being a last-minute on-the-spot booking.
I checked into a large, cosy log-house room with a personal balcony overlooking the valley, and an unobstructed view of the snowcapped peaks of Trishul, Mrigathuni, Maiktoli, Nanda Devi, and Panchachuli. The serenity, the surrounding greenery, and nearness to the majestic Himalayan range made me instantly fall in love with Majkhali.
The Himalayan Range visible from Majkhali
After having a lavish complimentary breakfast on the balcony while gaping with awe at the snowcapped Himalayas, I went out for a leisurely stroll down the winding pathway to explore the area. The late morning road flanked by valleys and hills, and shaded by tall coniferous trees, was empty except occasional cars passing by. I walked past a couple of small roadside eateries towards the nearest marketplace, which I was told was within walkable distance. It was smaller than that in Mall Road, Ranikhet, but offering all essential services, including ATMs and shops renting cars and DSLR cameras to tourists.
Sunset in Majkhali was equally mesmerising. A glowing twilight and drapes of fog descended fast on the valley, transforming it into a wonderland.
Cars can be booked both from the local market or directly through one’s hotel. Making Majkhali the base, plenty of nearby tourist sites can be explored within a span of a day. As my car arrived late afternoon, I set out to see some of them. About 6kms from Majkhali, on the way to Ranikhet, lies the sprawling 9-hole Upat Golf Course, a popular picnic spot, having grown even more popular post the shooting of the film Raja Hindustani.
The place allows restricted and timebound entry for civilians. Bang opposite lies a colonial cottage, now better known as ‘Karishma Cottage’ after Karishma Kapoor, whose character lived there with Raja in the same film. It is situated deep inside the Army area, which left the Bollywood fangirl in me squinting hard at it from afar with utmost glee.
My driver, a friendly and hospitable Kumaoni, offered to be my tour guide for free and drove me farther around the squeaky clean Army cantonment area, showing off the Defence Academy, the KRC (Kumaon Regimental Centre) Museum, and Mall Road which was vibrant with colourful woollens, garments, handicrafts, and fruits. After shopping for some mementos, we called it a day and returned to the inn.
Cantonment Area, Ranikhet
Sunset in Majkhali was equally mesmerising. A glowing twilight and drapes of fog descended fast on the valley, transforming it into a wonderland. Wrapped in warm clothes, I sat in the balcony, sipping hot coffee, taking in the vast canvas of darkness before me, sparsely speckled with lights from distant houses in the villages below. Nightfall had wiped out the majestic peaks from my eyes, yet their tangible, towering presence at the horizon loomed strong in my awareness.
Sunset at Majkhali
On my second day at Majkhali, I decided to cover some neighbouring tourist destinations. My day was spent strolling among apple trees in snowy blooms at Chaubatia Garden, visiting the legendary Jhula Devi temple adorned in innumerable brass bells hung by devotees and the Haidakhan or Mahaavtar Baba Temple, exploring Rani Jheel Park, foraging fallen pine cones from the hilly terrains, and buying a bottle of Buransh (rhododendron flower) juice, a specialty of the upper Himalayan regions.
Apple Blossom at Chaubatia Garden
Several valleys and villages surrounding Majkhali are equally mesmerizing. I got to gape at some of them on the third day, as we headed out for a day-trip to Kausani, another famous hill station, situated in Bageshwar district, Uttarakhand. Kausani is about 29kms from Majkhali and can be reached via the Almora-Gopeshwar Road, or the Ranikhet-Dwarahat-Kausani Road.
Local Flora on the way to Kausani
As we took the first, we drove through the undulating hills and tall forests flanking the Majkhali-Someshwar Road on either side, rich with exquisite local flora, rhododendron blossoms, wild orchids, tall eucalyptus, pine and more. En route, we stopped at several villages around Payan, Corichhina, Patharia, Manan Bridge, and Bijoria Band, soaking in the extreme greenery of the valleys, photographing distant hills, winding rivulets, and reaching Kausani in about two hours.
Villages adjacent to Majkhali, on Someshwar-Dwarahat-Ranikhet Road
Kausani was nothing short of a hurricane tour, me hopping from Kausani Shawl Factory, to Kausani Tea Estate, Sumitranandan Pant Museum, and Anasakti Ashram that has a popular viewing point for Mount Trishul. Due to time constraint, I skipped some other popular spots, like the Kausani planetarium, Starscapes Observatory, Dudhadhari Falls, and a number of Shiva temples around the region, covering which would require at least a two-days stay in Kausani.
Kausani Tea Garden
Early evening, on our way back we again took several breaks to enjoy the breathtakingly landscape around Bijoria Band and Chhani Lwesal. At Chanoda, I was excited to stop and get into a roadside mountain rivulets, and my generous driver gladly became my videographer while I frolicked in its crystal-clear water. Wanting me to experience a different route to Majkhali, he then diverted into the Kausani-Dwarahat-Ranikhet Road that traverses through an equally lush and picturesque Someshwar valley.
Since I had skipped most of the famous temples, he also insisted that our final stop be at his ancestral Loadh Golu Devta Mukka Mandir, a little over 1kms from Majkhali, also famous for serving a Kumaoni delicacy. We reached back my lodge around seven in the evening, speeding through pitch dark roads with sharp turnings, and even managed to catch a glimpse of a mountain hyena crossing the road.
Also Read: The Clouds and the Mist: Lambasinghi
Given the quaint hamlet, the breathtaking Himalayan range, the natural bounty, the pervading silence and peace, the simple, affectionate locals, and the profusion of popular tourist destinations easily accessible from Majkhali, my trip began feeling rather incomplete while checking out of Yak and Yeti Inn on the fourth morning and heading down to Kathgodam. As my train rushed towards the crowded, polluted concrete jungle of the national capital, I was already filled with a strong nostalgia and reignited wanderlust demanding I soon return to this hidden gem of Uttarakhand, that is Majkhali.
Image Courtesy: Author
Majkhali
Majhkhali
Nivedita Dey
Nivedita Dey is a neurodivergent poet, author and columnist from Kolkata, India. She is one of the editors of HNDL Magazine. Her debut poetry collection was Larkspur Lane: Branched Labyrinths of the Mind (Notion Press, 2022). Dey is a double M.A. in English and Psychology. Her poetic philosophy is one of hope and transcendental humanism. She can be found at her website: niveditadey.com, Instagram: @niveditadeypodetry and Twitter: @Nivedita_Writes
