“Traveling — it leaves you speechless, then turns you in a storyteller” – Ibn Battuta
Battuta’s words have become a living manifestation in me and thus I have picked my pen or in this case my laptop to craft my first ever travelogue. Sure, I have penned travel essays in schools back in the day, however, this endeavor is a different ballgame. I am no longer concerned about scoring marks. I, instead, intend to be as personal and honest as I can whilst attempting to transport my readers to the enchanting land of Ceylon – a task I dare say is more challenging than impressing my English teacher!
Ayubowan, let’s embark on our tale of Sri Lanka- yes, the tiny island on the vast Indian ocean quite literally the shape of a droplet! To romanticize it further, one can envision it as a pearl nestled within a sea shell, with one shell being Antarctica and the other being the mainland of the northern hemisphere.
BON VOYAGE
Before the commencement of an anecdotal travelogue let’s at the outset get a brief idea of the framework of Sri Lankan tourism. In this regard, the country can be dissected into six regions: The North (Jaffna area) and the Eastern province which were the epicenters of the civil war, the western coast with Colombo being the most significant city of the west, the south being the dream-come-true for all beach lovers, the hill country above the southern region wherein the tea plantation is the most attractive aspect for tourism and the north of the hill country is the central province of ancient cities such as Pollonaruwa and Anuradhapura.
The country also has large national parks scattered, such as Yala, Wilpattu amongst others wherein the elephants and the leopards constitute the national pride. I have explored only a few areas of this dissection which I’ll elucidate in the following sections.
COLOMBO CHRONICLES
Ever wondered what it’s like to explore the streets of a nation’s capital combating bankruptcy? Are the people starving? Is inflation increasing commodity prices? Well, that’s what I wondered before I landed in Bandranaike International Airport amidst the interplay of sun and rain in July in 2024. To my surprise the highway that leads from the airport to Colombo, about a stretch of 30 kms, is a state-of-the-art expressway, marking a smooth welcome for tourists.
My father and I were taken to a posh locality called Rosmead Place in Colombo wherein we stayed in my cousin’s lovely home with her husband and daughters. My brother-in-law, is a foreign diplomat assigned currently to Sri Lanka. It is he and his driver who enlightened me about the politics just prior the 2024 elections. One drawback about staying with them, I would say, is that I was exposed mostly to the elite society of Colombo and hence could not quite gauge the grassroot level life, so I have to limit my estimations based on my Indian experience.
Sri Lanka, with its diverse landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality, has a way of captivating the soul. It is truly a traveller’s haven, a place where every corner has a story to tell.
Colombo boasts the Lotus Tower, the tallest skyscraper in the country, symbolizing national resilience in overcoming economic constraints and the horrors of civil war. Chinese loans have also facilitated the construction of a commercial port, aiming to become a significant geopolitical and economic hub for trade routes across the Indian Ocean. Galle Road area, a premium neighbourhood, harbours many sea-facing five-star hotels, the Town Hall, and the erstwhile Parliament. Our stay in Colombo led us to revisit this area multiple times throughout the day, allowing us to experience its elite charm in different lights.
Our driver also took us to the older parts of the city, which bear a strong resemblance to any tier-two city in India. Surprisingly we discovered a red and yellow Victoria Memorial Eye Hospital at De Soysa Circus, its striking colour and structure makes it impossible to go unnoticed, however, it is absolutely contrast to the famous Victoria Memorial of Calcutta, if that’s what readers are wondering. We also marvelled at the impressive train tracks running parallel to the ocean. The greatest takeaway from Colombo for city administrators would be its pollution control, cleanliness, and greenery. It is truly laudable how clean the streets are, setting an example for urban management.
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In Colombo, sampling local Sri Lankan cuisine is a must – from various kinds of hoppers, Thosai, Kiribath and curries to sweet Thambili and exotic fruits like Rambutan. The Tamil influence in the cuisine is abundantly prominent. Food that I missed out on tasting but should have had are Lamprais and Crab Vadai.
CHASING SRI LANKAN DREAMS ONE BEACH AT A TIME
Since Sri Lanka is surrounded by the Indian Ocean, the country boasts a garland of picturesque beaches that look like scenes straight out of a Windows wallpaper. For travellers, it’s important to note that the best time to visit the southern beaches, such as Bentota, Hikkaduwa, and Mirissa, is from October to March. Conversely, April to September is ideal for exploring the eastern beaches like Trincomalee and Arugam Bay. These beaches offer a plethora of water activities, from snorkelling at Pigeon Island to whale watching in Mirissa, and from jet-skiing to scuba-diving. However, the Indian Ocean can be treacherous, with strong currents caused by vast winds and lunar influences, making it unsafe to enter the water at certain areas.
As a beach enthusiast, I convinced my family to stay a few days by the ocean. Given the easier access from Colombo, we chose to head to Unawatuna Beach and Weligama Bay, even though it was off-season. In Unawatuna, our villa was right on the beach, and the lack of crowds made it feel like a private paradise just beyond our backyard. The choppy waters and rocky beach added character, and we delighted in watching crabs in their natural habitat. The sight of white foam crashing against mossy rocks, combined with the serene blue water turning into a myriad of sunset hues at twilight, made my first evening in Unawatuna priceless.
Due to the rough sea at Unawatuna, we took a half-hour boat ride to Jungle Beach, where the water was relatively calmer. The mossy green sea, true to its name, was perfect for a swim. We spent about an hour in the water before searching for a suitable snorkelling spot. Unfortunately, low underwater visibility and rough seas thwarted our plans. The boat ride back was so rough that one of us got sea-sick.
Later, we went to a nearby beach for turtle watching where I noticed that many Sri Lankan beaches are narrow with barely any sand, except for a few, boasting sun-kissed golden sands. The turtle expedition was challenging as we walked on a rocky seabed to a knee-deep section of the sea, where we fed mosses to three giant turtles, balancing amidst strong waves and slippery rocks. We also tried the local Barramundi fish, though I’m not a big fan of fish.
The next day, we took the southern expressway, which is perfect for a road trip movie shooting, to reach Weligama Bay. The bay’s perfect horseshoe shape was a delight to observe from the eighth floor of our hotel, the Marriott, which was the only tall building in the area. The cold waves in Weligama crash beautifully along the beach, making it a sweet spot for beginner surfers.
Encouraged by my expert surfer nieces, I joined them for an hour. Despite returning with an aching body, a bruised leg, and numerous failed attempts to balance on the surfboard, the breathtaking view, the resort’s amenities, and the local prawn curry and delicious Kothu Roti made up for my surfing mishaps. Nonetheless, these beaches have left me craving for more and I will definitely attempt to visit the other beaches of the country if I visit again.
GALLE: GATEWAY TO THE COLONIAL GALORE
If you love cycling through streets steeped in colonial heritage, then Galle is the destination for you. I recommend cycling after sundown, as the midday sun can be harsh, leading to quick exhaustion and unwanted tanning. Instead of cycling, we chose to explore the tiny cobbled streets on foot within the Galle Fort area. This fort is a large fortress wall enclosing the main tourist paths, yet the town of Galle extends well beyond these historical walls physically if not metaphorically.
Our walk took us past the iconic white lighthouse, up the fortress stairs for a stunning view of the ocean, architectural genius of archaic churches and bustling shopping lanes. This quaint town is a haven for shoppers, particularly those seeking locally produced semi-precious stones for which Sri-Lanka is quite famous worldwide. Galle is perfect for a few hours of leisure or a weekend getaway from city locals, where you can indulge in colonial cuisine and savour delightful gelato. Located just a two-hour drive from Colombo, Galle serves as a doorway to the southern part of Sri Lanka.
ANURADHAPURA: ABODE OF ANCIENT ALLURE
Our last destination was Anuradhapura which took about a four-hour car drive to Colombo across the countryside. Most of the journey comprised of tropical rural agricultural landscape with intermittent presence of small towns.
The sun was scorching and the humidity was intense as we left our hotel in Anuradhapura for sightseeing. It is the capital of one of the most ancient kingdoms since civilisation dawned upon this island. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
We walked barefooted around the dilapidated palaces of Lovamahapaya and Ratnaprasadi, saw the bathing ponds: the Eth Pokuna (meaning Elephant Pond) and Kuttam Pokuna (meaning Twin Ponds), visited the museums established by archaeologists, observed the stone carvings of Moonstone and prayed at the Buddhist Pagodas with several white-clad devotees.
Anuradhapura has a Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Tree which is a tree grown from cutting a branch of the sacred tree in Bodh Gaya, India, under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The spirituality in the air, the welcoming demeanour of the priests who even gave us sacred white threads despite being Hindu tourists and the devotion of devotees made me forget the hot ground piercing though my bare feet and revere the Lord Buddha’s teachings.
AU REVIOR
Sri Lanka, with its diverse landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality, has a way of captivating the soul. It is truly a traveller’s haven, a place where every corner has a story to tell.
As the journey ends, I can’t help but thank the island for providing a happy place to escape from the mundane stress of daily routine. The greatest lesson it has taught is that life comes from within oneself and not at oneself as the resilient people gracefully fight the economic constraints. Hence, the most befitting expression of gratitude towards Sri Lanka is a renewed inspiration to live life whole-heartedly. A major contribution to the same is inevitably made by my travel companions — my family, it is they who had paved the way for this experience to be homely and wholesome.
As I bid farewell, I carry with me not just photographs and souvenirs, but a treasure trove of memories and experiences that have turned me into a storyteller. Goodbye, Sri Lanka – until we meet again.
Photo Courtesy: Author
