– Going to Mongolia? What for? Who goes there?
This was the question I had to face from many. And the reply to them was, “Because it is there.” Actually the diversity of landscape in the land of ‘once upon a time’ largest empire was singularly enough for the push. The piping over the cake was it was the‘Land of Chinghis Khan.’ Yes they pronounce it that way.
The ground for sowing the seed was started in 2019, but Covid had other script in mind. Hence the seed germinated in 2021. Being travelers of low budget, negotiation with the agent started. We can stay in tents wherever possible and our itirinary was sent to an agent in Mongolia. They will provide us with tents, sleeping bags, 2 vehicles and cook. Ratan, our leader and seasoned explorer, took all the pains of chalking out details. Countdown started. Hail Chinghis.
From 5th of July to 4th of August 2023 we traversed Mongolia in the North West, West, and South West and ultimately headed for Gobi desert in South. Ongi was one of the important and biggest monasteries in the Gobi desert. The twin monasteries were named after Ongi river, on the southern bank of which was Hutgat Monastery, founded in 1660 and Balim Monastery, on the northern bank, a relatively younger brother, about 240 years old. During our visit, there were only the ruins of this historic institution with only one temple partly renovated and a museum exhibiting a few relics of old days.
The demolition of this institution took place in 1938 as a result of anti religious outrage during the communism regimen. This outrage killed about 200 monks and others saved their lives by enlisting into the communist controlled army. Some escaped and converted to farmers and common workers. While going through the ruins, we tried to visualize the place at its hay days with, more than 30 temples, 4 big Buddhism Universities, and about 1000 monks.
We drove towards Bayan Zag Flaming Cliffs, one of the attractions of Gobi Desert. This cold desert in Southern Mongolia is the sixth largest desert in the world with an area of about 1,295,000 square kilometers approximately.
Our journey through the Gobi was through barren landscape, patchy grasslands and occasional forested areas of juniper like plants. These plants are used as fuel by local inhabitants. We had a glimpse of an antelope fleeing and disappearing among the thickets. We also came across Bactrian camels with double humps. These camels were in the process of shedding their winter fur. Presently, the remaining fur was adorning their humps only. We looked at their hump cover and they looked at our body cover..
After reaching the desired area, We walked through a pathway made of metal sheet which zigzagged through the golden yellow sand basement to reach our ultimate destination, Flaming Cliffs site (also known as Bayanzag, Bain-Dzak or Bayn Dzak). The name is believed to be derived from Saxaul (Haloxylon ammodendron), a plant rich in the area which prevents soil erosion.
This reddish sandstone marvel literally appears to be in flames especially during setting hours. Nature has carved wonderful sculptures out of this sandstone mass using wind as scalpel.. We walked and walked on the branched pathway which diverged from the main path to get different views of the cliff. Some looked like gorges, one like the head of an Egyptian sphinx, while another appeared like embracing couple. All the sculptures in the cliff started blushing, turning into yellowish orange then gradually to more reddish . Macckenas Gold. This surreal thought was broken by a voice, “One of the first eggs of Dinosaurs was unearthed from here.” Not unusual, this rugged, dry ‘out of the earth’, terrain should be the ideal home of the ancient reptiles.
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I learnt that these ancient dinosaurs,of the family of Maniraptorans like Archaeornithoides, Velociraptor, Sauronithoides and Oviraptor dominated the area along with other species. The interesting fact is that all these are representatives of smaller dinosaurs and are more close to birds. Fossil remains of other dinosaurs like Protoceraptos and Pinacosaurus were also unearthed. Roy Chapman Andrews , an American paleontologist found: fossilized dinosaur eggs in the year 1920. He also found fossilised specimens of Velociraptor
There was a model of a dinosaur emerging from egg breaking the shell. Such a sweet creation! It took me back to about 75 million years ago when these old ancestors of us lived here. Fossils of prehistoric mammals also established their presence in this Gobi desert. It made me feel humble. I retraced my footsteps and stood on the edge of an overhang; Swayed by the thought of existence in this surreal atmosphere, I wanted to be away from others, to be within myself.. My presence on the edge of the cliff was of a dream person standing alone on a barren gold stricken platform surrounded by a vast golden vista. The sun was at the horizon. We humans seem to be outside of this world of spectacle, where environment turns into orange flames every day. It is here where the mind is without fear and the head is held high. We are fortunate.
Picture Credit : Author
