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A Trip on Two Wheels Through North-East India

The narration of one of my favorite rides to North-East, which I undertook to attend the BOBMC (Brotherhood of Bulleteers Motorcycling Consortium), ‘Rider Mania’
Trip on two wheels through north-east india
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17th January 2023 morning, three of my biker friends (Bomi Patel (69 yrs), Sukesh (48 yrs), Surya (42 yrs) met at Hotel Imroze, Ameerpet to have a cup of Hyderabadi special Irani Chai. After a refreshing Chai, we went to Shamshabad, Airport. We opted to go to Guwahati by flight as transportation cost of our bulls (bikes) to Shillong was way too high and delivery date of bulls on time was uncertain. Our event was in Shillong, and we had a plan to cover most of the places we can see in just eight days. After reaching Gauhati, we hired four Himalayan bikes and opted to take rest. Rent-A-Bike is very easily available there. Tourists hire motorcycles from North-East to travels to Kaziranga, Tawang, Dimapur, Bomdila and many more places. For stay, you get a better deal if booked through booking sites. Better and safe places is always the priority. At just Rs. 1600/- we got a furnished double bedroom, dinning, drawing and kitchen. So relaxed to see the property with beautiful garden. Weather was very pleasant and cool. Thought of having couple of drinks followed by dinner. Slept well and our ride began next morning.

Bomi Dada, Subhabrata, Surya and Sukesh at Gauhati airport (left to right)

Our first destination was darshan of Kamakhya Devi temple. It took little less than 4 hours to get blessings of divine mother. Main city to temple is around 12.5 kms. After the darshan, we went back to our apartment. Took baggage’s had breakfast and headed for Shillong. Highways are great these days. Before reaching our next destination, it was pitch dark and hardly anyone at highway. Mind it, evening starts early in North-East. We had 60 more kms left to reach Shillong. That 60 km was nightmare for us. New place, hilly terrain, hired bikes, unknown roads, no humans and mobile GPS was also not getting proper signals.

On the way we met five more bikers. They were travelling from Mizoram, they told. We followed them and I was leading our group. Somehow, after some time I had a doubt about the route. My mobile GPS was showing different route. Sukesh and Bomi Dada kept following the bikers. Surya and I tried calling them, but no response. Immediately I rushed to follow them by keeping Surya on wait.

Me with Bomi Dada

After almost a km back lights of bikes were visible. They were passing through an open ground. Reaching near Sukesh and Bomi Dada, I told them to not to follow them anymore. We three were back to the place where Surya was waiting for us. Enquired from a Petrol pump about the route and by that time GPS signal was also available. “Thank God”, that we were safe.

A friend of mine from Guwahati told, not to go out in the evenings, because it is not safe. About 8 p.m., we reached hotel in Shillong. Late in the evening everything closes early.  Shillong almost frozen us that day. We four were sitting in a room with two room heaters. Food almost over by the time we checked in. Somehow, we managed with some noodles, fried rice, boiled eggs, and Old Monk. Liquor is cheap in Shillong.

18th morning, we woke up. A beautiful sunny day. Sun was visible in between hills and the Sun rays gave us much relief outside our room. Bomi Dada has an old friend there. He called Dr. Sadem Amer. He is an Ortho Surgeon in Govt. hospital. He met us in just 30 mins. Very nice and humble person and that too a biker. Three of my biker mates started at around 8 in the morning for Cherrapunjee.

Me with Bomi dada and Sukesh

I had an important pre-bid web-meeting. So, we decided not to wait for me. The distance to cover was just 57 kms. On the way, there are many places you can visit such as – Ward’s Lake, Shillong Peak, Elephant Falls, Wah Kaba Waterfalls, Arwah Caves (a must), Mawkdok Dympep Valley Viewpoint, Dainthlen Falls. On the way, Double Decker Root Bridge is a natural wonder located in the rainforests. To reach it, you must climb over 3500 stairs. The trek to bridge is almost 3 km long and 3500+ steps. Going down is easier, but return is more tiring and hectic.

My solo ride started after my call. Reached Cherrapunjee and called my biker mates. By the time I reached, they were having lunch. We had good vegetarian lunch at ‘Orange Roots.’ Food was good, but no non-veg option available there. We got a surprise when we received call from Dr. Sadem. He almost followed them, as that was weekly off for him. Evening before dark, he left and went back.

We decided to stay in Cherrapunjee. Stayed in Hesed House. Wooden cottage with fireplace, woo. We were unlucky that we couldn’t experience a single drop of rain. The night was a nightmare for us. Bomi Dada had a cramp in his right leg, and he was screaming. His face and body became red. We felt helpless, as no mobile network, availability of doctor in the morning only, when we asked the Manager. We need to hydrate ourselves a lot when we ride. Dada recovered slowly after having a litre of water. Somehow, we slept late with fear.

Starting for Seven Sisters falls

19th morning, we went to see seven sisters falls early in the morning. Many famous falls are there in Cherrapunjee. A ride of almost 10 kms from our stay. We came back upset. View was great but no water in the falls. Probably not the right time to visit. Cherrapunjee is good in rainy season.

Mawlynnong the cleanest village in Asia in the East Khasi Hills of Meghalaya was our next destination. The distance we need to cover was almost 80 kms. 28 kms back towards the way to Shillong and take a right towards Laitlyngkot. Highway no 206 is the way we need to cover. It took around 2 hours and 30 mins to cover the distance. Construction work on highways were in progress.

Read More : Meeting The Lord Amidst A Snow-Clad Badrinath

Almost 10 kms of under construction roads. Remaining roads were enjoyable. Very neat and beautiful village with garden. The village is very small but looked little artificial because of well-constructed tar roads and houses. Greatness of the villagers is to collect waste in bamboo bins and ensure to put in pits to use as manure. It took us around 2 hours to enjoy the beauty of the village and learn about their consciousness. Plastic and smoking are strictly prohibited.

The cleanest village of Asia, Mawlynnong

Dawki, was our last destination for the day. It is a small town located at the bottom of the Jaintia Hills in West Jaintia Hills district in Meghalaya. A ride of another 30 kms from Mawlynnong. Last 6-7 kms was narrow with high security of Indian Army check posts.

Border of India-Bangladesh. The bank of the river is demarcated with boulders, just a step other side is Bangladesh. We have experienced reaching foreign land by crossing the boulders.

India-Bangadesh border demarcated by boulders.

Beautiful boats with multiple colours. The main attraction in Dawki is the river. The river is so clear that you can see the bottom of the river up to 35-40 fts. Must try at Dawki is boating. The last destination you reach by boat is having heavy flow of water and that’s scary. Crystal-clear river is better in the morning. Quiet river surrounded by rocky hills, partially sandy beach with tents to stay. Would be an amazing experience to stay a night in tents.

Boating on crystal clear water of Dawki river

19th morning, we started back for Shillong for our mega event ‘Rider Mania’. On the way you find the real beauty of nature. Undulated roads with cold green hills all around. Roads are smooth like journey to heaven. On the way you find lot of small, good eateries, that too local. Must try is steamed pork with rice. Although you may not like but trust me, it’s amazing if your inner conscious permits to eat pork.

The river bank

Reached the venue in the afternoon. The event was in Orchid Lake Resort, Umiam, Shilong. The event was named as ‘HOI-KIW BOBMC Rider Mania’. HOI-KIW means let’s go or “chalo chalo” in local language. Clubs with their banners and traditional dresses enter the venue with thumping sound of Bullet motorcycles. Rooms, tent, places for personal tents are allotted.

Different kinds of RE-Bikes – new, vintage, modified bikes are an attraction of the event. Over 1600 bikers from different parts of India participated the event. Determined, resilient, tenacious are very small words for the bikers you meet at such events because of the accidents they have met but they still ride. Apart from meeting old friends, good food, new accessories, events like arm wrestling, beer guzzling, tire burning, tire throwing, mud track race, slow riding are some of the attractive events one can enjoy.

1600 bikes at the event

The event was memorable. Still, I remember each & every moment of the tour. Hope to be back will another lifelong experience.

Subhabrata has over 23 years of professional experience in the fields of Photogrammetry, GIS & Remote Sensing. He is working with Enfragy Solutons India Pvt. Ltd. (IDAM Infra group) as GM – Geomatics. At present he is into planning and monitoring of LiDAR, 3D and 2D Geospatial projects of NRSC, ISRO and GIS for EIA studies for other clients. He holds Bachelor of Management degree and Mechanical Engg. Diploma.

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